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EATING AND DRINKING |
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Eating and drinking are among Paris's chief delights, as they are in
the country as a whole. The capital offers a tremendous variety of
cuisines: as well as regional French cooking, notably from the southwest,
you can sample Senegalese, Caribbean, Thai, eastern European and North
African cuisine, among others. There's also a huge diversity of eating
and drinking establishments: luxurious restaurants in the traditional
style or elbow-to-elbow bench-and-trestle-table jobs; spacious
brasseries and cafés where you can watch the world go by while nibbling
on a baguette sandwich; or dark, cavernous beer cellars and tiny wine
bars with sawdust on the floor offering wines by the glass from every
region of France. You can take coffee and cakes in a chintzy salon de
thé , in a bookshop or gallery, or even in the confines of a mosque.
Bars can be medieval vaults, minimalist or postmodern design units,
London-style pubs or period pieces in styles ranging from the Swinging
Sixties to the Naughty Nineties.
It's true that the old-time cheap neighbourhood cafés and bistros are a
dying breed, while fast-food chains haveburgeoned at an alarming speed.
Quality is also in decline at the lower end of the restaurant market,
particularly in tourist hotspots. Yet, however much Parisians bemoan the
changing times, you'll find you're still spoiled for choice, even on a
modest budget. There are numerous fixed-price menus ( prix fixe ) for
under ¬12.20, particularly at lunchtime, providing staple dishes; for
¬22.87 you'll have the choice of more interesting dishes; and for
¬30.49, you should be getting some gourmet satisfaction.
The big boulevard cafés and brasseries are always more expensive than
those a little further removed, and addresses in the smarter or more
touristy arrondissements set prices soaring. A snack or drink on the
Champs-Élysées, place St-Germain-des-Prés or rue de Rivoli, for instance,
will be double or triple the price of Belleville, Batignolles or the
southern 14e. Many bars have happy hours , but prices can double after
10pm, and any clearly trendy, glitzy or stylish place is bound to be
expensive.
We list the different eating and drinking establishments by area. They
are divided into restaurants , including some brasseries, and bars and
cafés , incorporating snack bars, ice-cream parlours and salons de thé .
The Islands
Bars and Cafés
Berthillon 31 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île, 4e. Mº Pont-Marie. Wed-Sun
10am-8pm.
Long queues for these excellent ice creams and sorbets (¬3.35 a triple),
with a big choice of unusual fruity flavours, such as rhubarb. There are
also outlets at Lady Jane and Le Flore-en-l'Île , both on quaid'Orléans,
as well as at four other island sites.
The Tuileries, Champs-Élysées and around
Cafés and bars
Angélina 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er. Mº Tuileries. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat &
Sun 9am-7.30pm; closed Tues in July & Aug.
A long-established gilded cage, where the well-coiffed sip the best hot
chocolate in town and scoff exquisite pastries.
Barry's 9 rue Duras, 8e. Mº Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau. Mon-Sat 11am-3pm.
Salads, snacks and sandwiches for under ¬4.57 in a tiny street behind
the Élysée Palace.
Café Marly Cour Napoléon du Louvre, 93 rue de Rivoli, 1er. Mº Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre.
Daily till 2am. Inside the Louvre, with tables beneath the
colonnadeoverlooking the Pyramid in summer; chic, very classy and very
expensive.
Le Fouquet's 99 av des Champs-Élysées, 8e. Mº George-V. Daily till
1.30am.
Le Fouquet's is such a well-established watering hole for stars of the
stage and screen, politicians, newspaper editors and advertising barons,
that it's now been classified as a "Monument Historique". You pay dearly
to sit in the deep leather armchairs, and as for the restaurant don't
expect to pay less than ¬45.73.
Musée Jacquemart-André 158 bd Haussmann, 8e tel 01.45.62.11.59. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule
& Mº Miromesnil. Daily 11am-6pm.
A sumptuously appointed salon de thé in a nineteenth-century palazzo,
with salads at ¬8.84-12.96, a lunch formule at ¬13.11 and a popular
weekend brunch for ¬19.82; museum ticket not needed.
Le Rubis 10 rue du Marché-St-Honoré, 1er. Mº Pyramides. Mon-Fri
7am-10pm, Sat 8am-4pm; closed mid-Aug.
One of the oldest wine bars, with a reputation for excellent wines,
snacks and plats du jour . Very small and very crowded. Glasses of wine
from ¬0.84.
Restaurants
aux Amis du Beaujolais 28 rue d'Artois, 8e tel 01.45.63.92.21. Mº George-V
& Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule. Mon-Sat noon-3pm & 6.30-9pm; closed middle
two weeks of July. If you can fathom the hand-written menu, you'll find
good traditional french stews and sautéed steaks, washed down with
Beaujolais. Evening menu at ¬18.29.
Le Dauphin 167 rue St-Honoré, 1er tel 01.42.60.40.11. Mº Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre.
Daily: Nov-May noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; June-Oct till 12.30am.
A genuine bistro, with a menu at ¬21.34 and seafood platter during
oyster season for ¬25.46. Country cooking includes pig's cheeks,
lapereau (young rabbit) à la grand-mère and magret de canard .
Dragons Élysées 11 rue de Berri, 8e tel 01.42.89.85.10. Mº George-V.
Daily 11am-3pm & 7-11pm.
The restaurant's Chinese-Thai cuisine encompasses dim sum, curried
seafood and baked mussels, but the overriding attraction is the
extraordinary decor. The floor is made of glass tiles, beneath which
pools of water gurgle and exotic fish dart back and forth. ¬12.20 lunch
menu, ¬33.34 for menu royal , à la carte ¬38.11.
Foujita 41 rue St-Roch, 1er tel 01.42.61.42.93. Mº Tuileries & Mº
Pyramides. Mon-Sat noon-2.15pm & 7.30-10pm; closed mid-Aug.
One of the cheaper but better Japanese restaurants, as proven by the
numbers of Japanese eating here. Quick and crowded; soup, sushis, rice
and tea for ¬10.98 at lunchtime; plate of sushis or sushamis for under
¬16.77.
Restorama Le Carrousel du Louvre, 1er. Mº Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre.
Daily 9am-9pm.
One vast, underground, fast-food eating hall served by over a dozen
different outlets: rôtisseries, hamburgers, pizzas, Tex-Mex, Chinese,
Lebanese, Japanese, crêperies, salad bars - easy to eat for under ¬7.62.
Access from place du Carrousel or the Louvre Pyramid.
Yvan 1bis rue J-Mermoz, 8e tel 01.43.59.18.40. Mº Franklin-D-Roosevelt.
Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm & 7pm-midnight; Sat 7pm-midnight.
Fish specialities and pigeon with polenta attract a stylish clientele.
Extremely good food and menus from ¬25.61.
The Grands Boulevards and around
Cafés and bars
L'Arbre à Cannelle 7 passage des Panoramas, 2e. Mº Grands-Boulevards.
Mon-Sat till 6.30pm.
Exquisite wooden panelling, frescoes and painted ceilings make this an
enchanting spot for puddings, flans and assiettes gourmandes. Prices are
¬9.15-11.43.
Aux Bons Crus 7 rue des Petits-Champs, 1er. Mº Pyramides. Mon 9am-4pm,
Tues-Sat 9am-11pm.
A relaxed, workaday place that has been serving good wines and cheese,
sausage and ham for over eighty years. Wine from ¬2.29 a glass; plate of
cold meats from ¬8.38.
Le Café 62 rue Tiquetonne, 2e. Mº Les Halles & Mº Étienne-Marcel. Daily
10am-2am.
On the junction with rue Étienne-Marcel, a quiet and secluded café, with
old maps on the walls and people playing chess. Plats du jour
¬6.86-8.38.
Le Grand Café Capucines 4 bd des Capucines, 9e. Mº Opéra.
A favourite all-nighter with over-the-top belle-époque decor and
excellent seafood. Boulevard prices mean ¬3.05 for an espresso.
Juveniles 47 rue de Richelieu, 1er. Mº Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre. Mon-Sat
noon-midnight.
A very popular, tiny wine bar run by a Brit. Wine from ¬12.96 a bottle;
plats du jour around ¬10.37.
Kitty O'Shea's 10 rue des Capucines, 2e. Mº Opéra. Daily noon-1.30am.
An Irish pub with excellent Guinness and Smithwicks. A favourite haunt
of Irish expats. The John Jameson restaurant upstairs serves high-quality,
pricey, Gaelic food, including seafood flown in from Galway.
Le Sous-Bock 49 rue St-Honoré, 1er. Mº Châtelet & Mº Les Halles. Mon-Sat
11am-5am, Sun 3pm-5am.
Hundreds of beers - bottled and on tap - at around ¬6.10 a pint, as well
as whiskies to sample, plus simple, inexpensive food. Mussels are a
speciality (¬9.15-11.43). Frequented by night owls. Prices go up after
7pm.
Restaurants
Chartier 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9e tel 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands-Boulevards.
Daily 11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm.
Dark-stained woodwork, brass hat-racks, mirrors, waiters in long aprons
- the original decor of a late-nineteenth-century soup kitchen. Though
crowded and rushed, it's worth a visit, and the food's not bad at all.
Under ¬15.24.
Dilan 13 rue Mandar, 2e tel 01.42.21.14.88. Mº Les Halles & Mº Sentier.
Mon-Sat noon-2pm & 7.30-11.30pm.
An excellent-value Kurdish restaurant, offering beautiful starters,
stuffed aubergines ( babaqunuc ), fish with yoghurt and courgettes (
kanarya ). Midday menu ¬9.76.
Le Gros Minet 1 rue des Prouvaires, 1er tel 01.42.33.02.62. Mº Châtelet
& Mº Les Halles. Mon & Sat 7.30-11.30pm, Tues-Fri noon-2pm &
7.30-11.30pm. Relaxed, small and charming restaurant, specializing in
duck dishes.
Higuma 32bis rue Ste-Anne, 1er tel 01.47.03.38.59.Mº Pyramides.
Daily 11.30am-10pm. Authentic Japanese canteen with cheap filling ramen
dishes and a variety of set menus starting at ¬9.60.
L'Incroyable 26 rue de Richelieu, 1er tel 01.42.96.24.64. Mº Palais-Royal-Musée-du-Louvre.
Tues-Fri lunchtime & 6.30-9pm, Mon & Sat lunchtime only.
Hidden away down a tiny passage, this a very pleasant restaurant serving
decent traditional French meals dishes for ¬12.96 lunch; ¬17.53 eves.
Au Pied de Cochon 6 rue Coquillière, 1er tel 01.42.36.11.75. Mº Châtelet
& Mº Les Halles. Daily 24hr.
For extravagant middle-of-the-night pork chops and oysters. Seafood
platter ¬23.63. Carte up to ¬45.73.
La Robe et le Palais 13 rue des Lavandières Ste-Opportune, 1er tel
01.45.08.07.41. Mº Châtelet. Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm & 7.15-10.30pm.
Refined, unpretentious cuisine and an excellent wine list served up in a
small, busy space. Good lunch menu for ¬12.04.
La Tour de Montlhéry (Chez Denise) 5 rue des Prouvaires, 1er tel
01.42.36.21.82. Mº Louvre-Rivoli & Mº Châtelet. Mon-Fri till midnight,
Sat lunchtime only.
An old-style Les Halles bistro serving substantial food; always crowded
and smoky; carte from ¬30.49.
Vaudeville 29 rue Vivienne, 2e tel 01.40.20.04.62. Mº Bourse. Daily
7am-2am.
A lively, late-night brasserie, often with a queue to get a table. Good
food, attractive marble-and-mosaic interior. À la carte from ¬22.87,
menu at ¬21.04.
La Victoire Suprême du Coeur 41 rue des Bourdonnais, 1er tel
01.40.41.93.95. Mº Louvre-Rivoli & Mº Châtelet. Mon-Sat noon-10pm.
Vegetarian restaurant of the Sri Chimnoy variety - the Indian guru's
photos and drawings cover the walls. The menu offers a wide range of
tasty salads, quiches and plats du jour (¬7.47); all very wholesome.
Quartier Beaubourg and the Marais
Bars and cafés
L'Apparemment Café 18 rue des Coutures-St-Gervais, 3e. Mº St-Sébastien-Froissart.
Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat 4pm-2am, Sun 12.30pm-midnight.
Chic, but cosy, café resembling a series of comfortable sitting rooms,
with quiet corners and deep sofas. Popular Sunday brunch until 4pm costs
¬13.72.
Café Beaubourg 43 rue St-Merri, 4e. Mº Rambuteau & Mº Hôtel-de-Ville.
Mon-Thurs & Sun 8am-1am, Sat 8am-2am.
A seat under the expansive awnings (café designed by Christian de
Portzamparc) is one of the best places for people-watching on the
Pompidou Centre's piazza; expensive, rather sour service, but very
stylish loos.
Dame Tartine 2 rue Brisemiche, 4e. Mº Rambuteau & Mº Hôtel-de-Ville.
Daily noon-11.30pm.
Overlooking the Stravinsky pool, this place serves particularly
delicious open toasted sandwiches from ¬4.57. Inside, the relaxed
atmosphere matches the mellow, yellow walls.
L'Ébouillanté 6 rue des Barres, 4e. Mº Hôtel-de-Ville. Tues-Sun noon-9pm,
till 10pm in summer.
A tiny salon de thé in a picturesque, cobbled, pedestrian-only street
behind the church of St-Gervais, serving chocolate cakes and pâtisseries,
as well as savoury dishes. Plats du jour for ¬10.21, Tunisian crêpes for
¬6.86, and generous salads.
Épices et Délices 53 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Daily till
midnight.
Restaurant and salon de thé with very pleasant service and food. Salads
from ¬9.15; evening menu ¬13.72.
Bar de Jarente 5 rue de Jarente, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Open Tues-Sat.
Just off the pretty place du Marché Ste-Catherine, this is a lovely old-fashioned
café-bar, which remains nonchalantly indifferent to the shifting trends
arround it.
Le Petit Fer à Cheval 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Mon-Fri
9am-2am, Sat & Sun 11am-2am; food noon-midnight.
A popular and very attractive small bistro/bar with trad decor,
including a huge zinc bar, and tables outside. Agreeable wine and good-value
plats ; sandwiches from ¬5.34.
Le Petit Marcel 63 rue Rambuteau, 3e. Mº Rambuteau. Mon-Sat till 2am.
Speckled tabletops, mirrors and Art Nouveau tiles, cracked and faded
ceiling and about eight square metres of drinking space. Friendly bar
staff and "local" atmosphere.
Le Rouge Gorge 8 rue St-Paul, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Mon-Sat 11am-2am, Sun
11am-8pm.
The young, enthusiastic clientele sip familiar wines and snack on chèvre
chaud and smoked-salmon salad, or tuck into more substantial fare (
plats du jour around ¬9.15) while listening to jazz or classical music.
Sacha Finkelsztajn 27 rue des Rosiers, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Wed-Sun 10am-2pm
& 3-7pm; closed Aug.
Marvellous for takeaway goodies: gorgeous east European breads, cakes,
gefilte fish, aubergine purée, tarama, blinis and borscht . There's
another branch at 24 rue des Écouffes (daily except Wed 10am-1pm &
3-7pm).
La Tartine 24 rue de Rivoli, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Daily except Tues until
10pm; closed Aug.
The genuine 1900s article, attracting a very mixed clientele. A good
selection of affordable wines, plus excellent cheese and saucisson with
pain de campagne .
Web Bar 32 rue de Picardie, 3e Mº Filles-du-Calvaire. Mon-Fri
8.30am-2am, Sat & Sun 11am-2am.
Paris's best cybercafé, on three levels in a converted industrial space,
with 15 terminals on a gallery level. A real culture zone: pick up a
printed programme of the art exhibitions, short film screenings and
other arty events or consult their website. Comfy couches to loll on and
a resident DJ make it a good place to chill, and simple healthy food
comes in generous portions (¬5.34 for a delicious quiche with heaps of
salad; lunch menu ¬7.77 or ¬9.30).
Restaurants
Aquarius 1 54 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 4e tel 01.48.87.48.71. Mº
St-Paul & Mº Rambuteau. Mon-Sat noon-10pm; closed last fortnight in Aug.
Vegetarian restaurant established in 1974: not the austere and
penitential place it once was, though. Alcohol is now served, but
smoking is still not allowed. It also functions as a health-food store,
New Age bookshop and salon de thé between lunch and dinner, so you can
order an omelette, soup or salad throughout the afternoon. Lunch menu at
¬9.45, evening ¬9.45 and ¬14.02. Hot dishes ¬3.35-9.76.
Auberge de Jarente 7 rue Jarente, 4e tel 01.42.77.49.35. Mº St-Paul.
Tues-Sat noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; closed Aug.
A hospitable and friendly Basque restaurant, serving first-class food:
cassoulet , hare stew, magret de canard , and piperade - Basque omelette.
Menus at ¬17.84 and ¬20.12, and ¬28.20 with wine.
Chez Nénesse 17 rue Saintonge, 3e tel 01.42.78.46.49. Mº Filles-du-Calvaire.
Mon-Fri noon-2pm & 7.45-10pm; closed Aug.
Steak in bilberry sauce, figs stuffed with cream of almonds, and home-made
chips on Thursday lunchtimes are some of the unique delights at this
restaurant. À la carte around ¬24.40.
Chez Omar 47 Rue de Bretagne, 3e. Mº Arts-et-Métiers. Closed Sun lunch.
Very popular North African resto in a nice old brasserie set with
mirrors, attracting a young crowd. Couscous ¬9.15-14.94. Does not accept
credit cards.
Les Fous d'en Face 3 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4e tel 01.48.87.03.75. Mº
Hôtel-de-Ville. Daily 11.30am-3pm & 7pm-midnight.
Delightful little restaurant and wine bar serving wonderful marinated
salmon and scallops. Midday menu under ¬13.72, otherwise à la carte
¬21.34 upwards.
Goldenberg's 7 rue des Rosiers, 4e tel 01.48.87.20.16. Mº St-Paul. Daily
until 2am.
The best known Jewish restaurant in the capital, though success has made
service pretty surly. Its borscht , blinis , potato strudels, zakouski
and other central-European dishes are a treat. Daily changing plat du
jour ¬12.20, à la carte around ¬30.49.
Le Grizli 7 rue St-Martin, 4e tel 01.48.87.77.56. Mº Châtelet. Mon-Sat
till 11pm.
Fin-de-siècle bistro serving superb food with specialities from the
Pyrenees. ¬17.53 midday menu; ¬23.63 evening.
Ma Bourgogne 9 place des Vosges, 3e. Mº St-Paul. Daily till 12.30am, 1am
in summer.
A quiet and pleasant arty café with tables under the arcades on the
northwest corner of the square. It's best in the morning when the sun
hits this side of the square. Meals are somewhat pricey - lunch and
dinner menu ¬29.73.
Le Marais-Cage 8 rue de Beauce, 3e tel 01.48.87.44.51. Mº Arts-et-Métiers
& Mº Filles-du-Calvaire. Mon-Fri noon-2.15pm & 7-10.30pm, Sat evenings
only; closed Aug.
Friendly, popular West Indian restaurant, serving good food, especially
seafood. ¬19.82 menu midday, ¬24.40 and ¬30.34 evening, wine included
with all.
Pitchi-Poï 7 rue Caron, cnr place du Marché-Ste-Catherine, 4e tel
01.42.77.46.15. Mº St-Paul. Daily noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm.
Excellent Polish-Jewish cuisine in a lovely location, with sympathetic
ambience and ¬22.87 lunch and dinner menu, kids' menu ¬11.13, and a
choice of delicious hors d'oeuvres from ¬6.55.
Le Quincampe 78 rue Quincampoix, 3e tel 01.40.27.01.45. Mº Étienne-Marcel,
Mº Rambuteau & RER Châtelet. Noon-11pm; closed Mon, Sat lunch & Sun.
Moroccan restaurant and salon de thé , with a pleasant atmosphere,
serving high-quality food and delicious mint tea. You can eat around a
real fire in the room at the back. Tagines, pastilla and plat du jour
¬12.20.
Bastille
Bars and cafés
Bar des Ferrailleurs 18 rue de Lappe, 11e. Mº Bastille. Daily 5pm-2am.
Dark and stylishly sinister bar, with rusting metal decor, an eccentric
owner and fun wig-wearing staff. Relaxed, friendly crowd.
Café de l'Industrie 16 rue St-Sabin, 11e. Mº Bastille. Noon-2am; closed
Sat.
Rugs on the floor around solid old wooden tables, miscellaneous objects
on the walls, and a young, unpretentious crowd enjoying the comfortable
lack of minimalism. One of the best Bastille addresses. Plats du jour
from ¬7.32.
Café des Phares 7 place de la Bastille, west side, 4e. Mº Bastille.
Daily 7am-4am. Every Sunday at 11am, a public philosophy debate is held
in the back room here, run by the somewhat controversial Nietzsche
specialist Marc Sautet. During the rest of the week, the sunny and
relaxed terrace is the perfect spot for coffee.
Fouquet's 130 rue de Lyon, 12e. Mº Bastille. Mon-Fri till midnight;
closed Sat & Sun midday. Sister establishment to the Champs-Élysées
Fouquet's .
A smart, expensive café-restaurant underneath the new Opéra. With
perfect French courtesy they will leave you undisturbed for hours with a
¬2.29 coffee. Menu, including wine, at ¬25.91.
Grand Appetit 9 rue de la Cerisaie, 4e. Mº Bastille. Mon-Thurs noon-7pm,
Fri & Sun noon-2pm.
Vegetarian meals served by dedicated eco-veggies at the back of an
unassuming shop.
Havanita Café 11 rue de Lappe, 11e. Mº Bastille. Daily 5pm-2am; happy
hour 5-8pm.
Large, comfortable, Cuban-style bar with battered old leather sofa.
Cocktails from ¬7.32.
Iguana 15 rue de la Roquette, cnr rue Daval, 11e. Mº Bastille. Daily
10am-2am.
A place to be seen in. Decor of trellises, colonial fans and a brushed
bronze bar. The clientele studies recherché art reviews, and the coffee
is excellent.
Le Temps des Cerises 31 rue de la Cerisaie, 4e. Mº Bastille. Mon-Fri
till 8pm; food atmidday only; closed Aug.
It is hard to say what is so appealing about this café, with its dirty
yellow decor, old posters and prints of vieux Paris , save that the
patronne knows most of the clientele, who are young, relaxed and not the
dreaded branchés . ¬10.37 menu.
Restaurants
Blue Elephant 43-45 rue de la Roquette, 11e tel 01.47.00.42.00. Mº
Bastille & Mº Richard-Lenoir. Daily except Sat lunchtime till midnight.
Superb Thai restaurant, with a tropical-forest decor. ¬22.87 midday menu,
otherwise over ¬41.16.
Boca Chica 58 rue de Charonne, 11e. Mº Ledru-Rollin. Daily 8am-2am.
Popular tapas bar/bodega, with colourful arty decor. It's heaving by
night and restful in the morning, when you can get coffee and croissant
for ¬1.52, and a newspaper for an extra ¬0.76. Tapas are ¬4.27-11.89.
Bofinger 7 rue de la Bastille, 3e tel 01.42.72.87.82. Mº Bastille. Daily
until 1am.
A popular fin-de-siècle brasserie with its original decor, serving
sauerkraut and seafood. Weekday lunchtime menu at ¬18.14, evening
¬27.13, both including wine; otherwise over ¬30.49.
La Canaille 4 rue Crillon, 4e tel 01.42.78.09.71. Mº Sully-Morland & Mº
Bastille. Daily till midnight; closed Sat & Sun lunchtime.
Bar in front, restaurant behind. Simple, traditional and well-cooked
food in a friendly atmosphere. There are ¬12.04 and ¬13.56 lunch menus -
¬19.82 in the evening - and à la carte at ¬21.34.
SanZSanS 49 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine, 11e. Mº Bastille. Daily 9am-2am.
Features a Gothic decor of red velvet, oil paintings and chandeliers,
with a young clientele in the evening. Drinks reasonably priced; main
courses for around ¬7.32-9.91, and there's always a vegetarian dish on
offer.
Quartier Latin
Cafés and bars
Café de la Mosquée 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e. Mº Monge. Daily 8am-midnight.
You can drink mint tea and eat sweet cakes beside a fountain and
assorted fig trees in the courtyard of this Paris mosque - a delightful
haven of calm. The salon has a beautiful Arabic interior. Meals are
served in the adjoining restaurant. Couscous from ¬6.38, tagines from
¬10.67.
Cyber Café Latino 13 rue de l'École-Polytechnique, 5e. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Mon-Sat 11am-2am, Sun 4-9pm.
Small, friendly bar with a Venezuelan owner, Latino sounds on the stereo
and fruit smoothies and tapas on the menu; six computers out the back to
surf the Net.
La Fourmi Ailée 8 rue du Fouarre, on sq Viviani, 5e. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Daily noon-midnight.
Simple, light fare - including weekend brunch (2-6pm; ¬15.24) - in this
former feminist bookshop, which has been transformed into a salon de thé
. A high ceiling painted with a lovely mural and a book-filled wall
contribute to the rarified atmosphere. Around ¬10.52 for a plat .
Le Piano Vache 8 rue Laplace, 5e. Mº Cardinal-Lemoine. Daily noon-2am.
Venerable student bar with canned music and a relaxed atmosphere.
Les Pipos 2 rue de l'École-Polytechnique, 5e. Mº Maubert-Mutualité & Mº
Cardinal-Lemoine. Mon-Sat 8am-2am; closed three weeks in Aug.
Old, carved, wooden bar, serving its own wines at ¬2.13-3.81 a glass.
Plats , which change every day, from ¬7.62 to ¬11.43.
Le Violon Dingue 46 rue de la Montagne-Ste-Geneviève, 5e. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Daily 6pm-1.30am; happy hour 6-10pm.
A long, dark, student pub that's also popular with young travellers;
noisy and friendly. English-speaking bar staff and cheap drinks.
Restaurants
Bistro de la Sorbonne 4 rue Toullier, 5e tel 01.43.54.41.49. RER
Luxembourg. Open Mon-Sat.
Traditional French and delicious North African food is served here in
large portions at reasonable prices. Crowded and attractive student/local
ambience. ¬10.52 lunch menu; ¬14.48 and ¬12.34 evening.
Brasserie Balzar 49 rue des Écoles, 5e tel 01.43.54.13.67. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Daily until 1am; closed Aug.
A traditional literary-bourgeois brasserie frequented by the
intelligentsia of the quartier Latin. À la carte about ¬27.44.
au Buisson Ardent 25 rue Jussieu, 5e tel .01.43.54.93.02. Mº Jussieu.
Open Mon-Fri; closed two weeks in Aug.
Copious helpings of first-class traditional cooking: mussels, duck, warm
goat cheese salad, lamb, etc. ¬10.67 menu lunch, ¬24.39 evenings.
Reservations recommended.
Chez Léna et Mimile 32 rue Tournefort, 5e tel 01.47.07.72.47. Mº Censier-Daubenton.
Mon-Fri until 11pm, Sat evening only.
The high south-facing terrasse , overlooking a shady little square, is
the main attraction, and the ¬28.20 menu with wine and coffee included
is excellent. Serves a ¬14.94 menu at lunchtime on weekdays.
Chieng-Maï 12 rue Frédéric-Sauton, 5e tel 01.43.25.45.45. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Closed Sun.
Excellent Thai cuisine served in elegant surroundings. Dishes include
beef sautéed with fresh basil, fish simmered in coconut milk and
lemongrass, and a generous selection of vegetarian choices. Menus ¬10.52
at lunchtime; otherwise ¬18.60 and ¬26.37.
Foyer du Vietnam 80 rue Monge, 5e tel 01.45.35.32.54. Mº Monge. Mon-Sat
until 10pm.
Casual, authentic Vietnamese with dishes from ¬4.57 and menus for ¬8.54
and ¬10.21.
Le Grenier de Notre-Dame 18 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e. Mº Maubert-Mutualité.
Daily noon-11.30pm.
Some veggies love this tiny place, which has been operating since 1978.
Others dislike it and its posh candle-lit atmosphere, cramped tables and
cheesy music. Substantial fare, including couscous, fried tofu and
cauliflower cheese. Menus at ¬11.43 and ¬16.
Koutchi 40 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5e tel 01.44.07.20.56. Mº Cardinal-Lemoine.
Closed Sun.
A well-regarded Afghan restaurant, with a congenial atmosphere, tasty
food and pretty good prices. Menu ¬8.38 at lunchtime, ¬14.93 in the
evening.
Mavrommatis 42 rue Daubenton, 5e tel 01.43.31.17.17. Mº Censier-Daubenton.
Closed Mon.
A sophisticated Greek restaurant, quite expensive (lunchtime menu
¬18.29), but you are definitely tasting Greek food at its best.
La Petite Légume 36 rue Boulangers, 5e. Mº Jussieu. Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm
& 7.30-10pm.
This is a health-food grocery that doubles as a vegetarian restaurant,
serving quality ingredients in a variety of plats for around ¬8.84.
Les Quatre et Une Saveurs 72 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5e tel
01.43.26.88.80. Mº Cardinal-Lemoine. Tues-Sat till 10pm.
Inventive, high-class macrobiotic vegetarian food. The ¬18.29 and ¬19.82
menus include coffee.
Tashi Delek 4 rue des Fossés-St-Jacques, 5e tel 01.43.26.55.55. RER
Luxembourg. Mon-Sat noon & eve until 10.30pm; closed Aug.
An enjoyable Tibetan restaurant run by refugees. Prices are as low as
¬7.93 at lunchtime and ¬9.76 in the evening.
St-Germain
Cafés and bars
Le 10 10 rue de l'Odéon, 6e. Mº Odéon. Daily 6.30pm-2am.
The beer here is very cheap, which is why it attracts young people,
particularly foreigners. Small dark bar with old posters, a jukebox, and
a lot of chatting up.
L'Assignat 7 rue Guénégaud, 6e. Mº Pont-Neuf. Mon-Sat 7.30am-8.30pm,
food noon-3.30pm; closed July.
Zinc counter, bar stools, bar football and young regulars from the
nearby art school in an untouristy café close to quai des Augustins.
¬4.12 for a sandwich and a glass of wine.
Chez Georges 11 rue des Canettes, 6e. Mº Mabillon. Tues-Sat noon-2am;
closed July 14-Aug 15.
An attractive wine bar in the spit-on-the-floor mode, with its old shop
front still intact, situated in a narrow street off place St-Sulpice.
Les Deux Magots 170 bd St-Germain, 6e. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés. Daily
6.30am-1.30am; closed one week in Jan.
Right on the corner of place St-Germain-des-Prés, this café owes its
reputation to the intellos of the Left Bank, past and present. In
summertime, it picks up a lot of foreigners seeking the exact location
of the spirit of French culture, and buskers galore play to the packed
terrace. Come early for an expensive but satisfying ¬11.43 breakfast.
Le Flore 172 bd St-Germain, 6e. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés. Daily
7am-1.30am.
The great rival and immediate neighbour of Les Deux Magots , with a very
similar clientele. Sartre, De Beauvoir, Camus and Marcel Carné used to
hang out here. Best enjoyed during a late-afternoon coffee or after-dinner
drink.
Le Mazet 60 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6e. Mº Odéon. Mon-Thurs 10am-2am, Fri
& Sat till 3.30am; happy hour 5-8pm; closed Sun.
Historically, a well-known hang-out for buskers and heavy drinkers. For
an evil concoction, try a bière brûlée - it's flambéed with gin. Small
glass beer ¬3.05, cocktails ¬7.47.
La Paillote 45 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6e. RER Luxembourg & Mº Odéon.
Mon-Sat 9pm-dawn; closed Aug.
The late-night bar for jazz fans, with one of the best collections of
recorded jazz in the city. Soft drinks start from ¬4.57.
La Palette 43 rue de Seine, 6e. Mº Odéon. Mon-Sat 8am-2am.
Once-famous Beaux-Arts student hang-out, now more frequented by art
dealers and their customers. The service can be uncivil, but the murals
and every detail of the decor are superb, including, of course, a large
selection of colourful, used palettes.
Pub Saint-Germain 17 rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie, 6e. Mº Odéon. Open 24hr.
Stocks 26 draught beers and hundreds of bottles. Huge, crowded and
expensive. Hot food at mealtimes, otherwise cold snacks. For a taste of
"real" French beer, try ch'ti (patois for "northerner"), a bière de
garde from the Pas-de-Calais. Live music nightly from 10pm.
La Taverne de Nesle 32 rue Dauphine, 6e. Mº Odéon. Daily 9pm-4am, Fri &
Sat till 5am.
Vast selection of beers. Full of local night birds. Cocktails from
¬6.86.
Restaurants
aux Charpentiers 10 rue Mabillon, 6e tel 01.43.26.30.05. Mº Mabillon.
Daily until 11pm; closed hols.
A friendly, old-fashioned place belonging to the Compagnons des
Charpentiers (Carpenters' Guild), with appropriate decor of roof-trees
and tie beams. Traditional plats du jour are their forte - tripe sausage,
calf's head and the like - for about ¬11.43. Around ¬30.49 à la carte ;
lunch menu at ¬18.29.
Cosi 54 rue de Seine, 6e tel 01.46.33.35.36. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés.
Daily noon-midnight.
Fantastic sandwiches (¬4.57-7.32) made on home-made focaccia bread. Mix
and match your own ingredients, including roast beef, tomatoes stewed
with coriander, cucumbers with chèvre, ricotta with nuts, roasted
vegetables, smoked salmon, and on it goes. Wine by the glass (¬2.74),
rich desserts (¬3.35). The opera-loving owner has a different opera on
the CD player each day.
Lipp 151 bd St-Germain, 6e. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés. Daily until 12.30am;
closed mid-July to mid-Aug.
A 1900s brasserie, and one of the best known establishments on the Left
Bank; haunt of the very successful and very famous. Plat du jour
¬15.24-17.53; no reservations, so be prepared to wait.
Le Muniche 7 rue St-Benoît, 6e tel 01.42.61.12.70. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés.
Daily noon-2am.
A crowded old-style brasserie with an oyster bar, mirrors and theatre
posters on the walls, serving classic French brasserie fare: seafood,
chou croute , leg of lamb. Menus at ¬14.94 and ¬27.44; carte ¬27.44.
Orestias 4 rue Grégoire-de-Tours, 6e tel 01.43.54.62.01. Mº Odéon. Mon-Sat
lunchtime & evening till 11.30pm.
A mixture of Greek and French cuisine. Good helpings and very cheap -
with a menu at ¬7.01 available weekdays until 8pm.
Le Petit St-Benoît 4 rue St-Benoît, 6e tel 01.42.60.27.92. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés.
Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm.
A simple and genuine local, popular with the neighbourhood's chattering
classes. Serves solid, traditional fare in a brown-stained, aproned
atmosphere. Menu at ¬19.82.
Le Petit Zinc 11 rue St-Benoit, 6e tel 01.42.61.20.60. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés.
Daily noon-2am.
Excellent traditional dishes, especially seafood, in stunning Art-Nouveau
style premises (built thirty yearsago). Not cheap - menu ¬28, seafood
platter ¬68.60 for two.
Polidor 41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6e tel 01.43.26.95.34. Mº Odéon. Mon-Sat
till 12.30am, Sun till 11pm.
A traditional bistro, open since 1845, whose visitors' book, they say,
boasts more of history's big names than all the glittering palaces put
together. Not as cheap as it was in James Joyce's day, but good food and
great atmosphere. Lunches at ¬8.38 during the week, and an excellent
¬25.15 evening menu.
Le Procope 13 rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie, 6e tel 01.40.46.79.00. Mº
Odéon. Daily noon-1am.
The first establishment to serve coffee in Paris, opened in 1686, Le
Procope is still a great place to enjoy a cup and bask in the knowledge
that over the years, Voltaire, Benjamin Franklin, Rousseau, Marat and
Robespierre, among others, have done the very same thing. Fairly good
¬19.82 menu (up to 8pm) and ¬27.13 menu with wine included after 11pm,
though some say it caters too much to tourists' weary tastebuds.
Restaurant des Beaux-Arts 11 rue Bonaparte, 6e tel 01.43.26.92.64. Mº
St-Germain-des-Prés. Daily lunchtime & evening till 10.45pm.
The traditional hang-out of Beaux-Arts students. The choice is wide,
portions are generous and queues are long in high season. The atmosphere
is generally good, though the waitresses can get pretty tetchy. Menu at
¬12.04, including wine.
Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides
Cafés and bars
Café du Museé d'Orsay 1 rue Bellechasse, 7e. RER Musée-d'Orsay & Mº
Solférino. Tues-Sun 11am-5pm.
Superb views over the Seine in the museum's magnificent rooftop café.
Snacks and drinks. Quick and friendly service.
Le Poch'tron 25 rue de Bellechasse, 7e. Mº Solférino. Mon-Fri
9am-10.30pm.
With a fine selection of wines by the glass, this is an excellentplace
to revive yourself after visiting the museums in the arrondissement.
Also serves lunch and dinner; main dishes at around ¬10.67.
Totem Southern wing of the Palais de Chaillot, place du Trocadéro, 16e.
Mº Trocadéro. Daily noon-2am.
Native American-themed restaurant, but with French traditional dishes
thrown in. The ¬20.43 lunch menu isn't bad, but the views from the
terrace are magnificent.
Restaurants
au Babylone 13 rue de Babylone, 7e tel 01.45.48.72.13 Mº
Sèvres-Babylone.
Mon-Sat lunch only; closed Aug. Lots of old-fashioned charm and culinary
basics like rôti de veau and steak, plus wine on the ¬15.24 menu.
Le Bourdonnais 113 av de la Bourdonnais tel 01.47.05.47.06. Mº
École-Militaire. Daily noon-2.30pm & 8-11pm.
A gem of a restaurant and a high-class one at that. À la carte costs
upwards of ¬60.98, but there's a superb midday menu including wine for
¬36.59, and an evening menu at ¬51.83.
Chez Germaine 30 rue Pierre-Leroux tel 01.42.73.28.34. Mº Duroc & Mº
Vaneau. Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm, Sat noon-2.30pm; closed Sun &
Aug.
A simple, tiny and unbelievably cheap restaurant, with a midday ¬7.62
menu and evening ¬9.91 menu, including wine; the carte costs up to about
¬13.72.
Montparnasse and the 14e
Cafés and bars
La Closerie des Lilas 171 bd du Montparnasse, 6e. RER Port-Royal. Daily
noon-1.30am.
The smartest, artiest, classiest Montparnasse café, with excellent
cocktails for around ¬9.15 and a resident pianist. The tables are
name-plated after celebrated former habitués (Verlaine, Mallarmé, Lenin,
Modigliani, Léger, Strindberg). Very expensive restaurant; brasserie
main courses for under ¬15.24.
L'Entrepôt 7-9 rue Francis-de-Pressensé, 14e. Mº Pernety. Mon-Sat
noon-midnight.
Spacious arty café within an excellent arthouse cinema; ¬11.74 midday
menu, ¬22.87 à la carte in the evening.
Le Rallye 6 rue Daguerre, 14e. Mº Denfert-Rochereau. Tues-Sat until 8pm;
closed Aug.
A good place to recover from the Catacombs or Montparnasse cemetery. The
patron offers a bottle of wine for tasting; gulping the lot would be
considered bad form. Good cheese and saucisson .
La Pause Gourmande 27 rue Campagne-Première, 14e. Mº Raspail. Mon-Fri
8.30am-7pm, Sat 8.30am-3pm.
No imagination spared on the decor of this small café, but it does serve
up delicious salads and savoury and sweet tartes from ¬4.27.
Restaurants
Aquarius 2 40 rue Gergovie, 14e tel 01.45.41.36.88. Mº Pernety. Mon-Sat
noon-2.15pm & 7-10.30pm.
Imaginative vegetarian meals served with proper Parisianbustle. ¬9.91
menu midday.
Le Berbère 50 rue de Gergovie, 14e tel 01.45.42.10.29. Mº Pernety. Daily
lunchtime & evening till 10pm.
Very unprepossessing decor-wise, but serves wholesome, unfussy and cheap
North African food. Couscous from ¬7.62.
La Coupole 102 bd du Montparnasse, 14e tel 01.43.20.14.20. Mº Vavin.
Daily 8.30-1am.
The largest and perhaps most famous and enduring arty-chic Parisian
hang-out for dining, dancing and debate. After 11pm, menu at ¬21.04
including wine, or carte from ¬25.92. Dancing Tues 9.30pm-4am, Fri & Sat
9.30pm-5am (¬15.24 and Sun 3-9pm (Sun ¬12.20).
au Rendez-Vous des Camionneurs 34 rue des Plantes, 14e tel
01.45.40.43.36. Mº Alésia. Mon-Fri lunchtime & 6-9.30pm; closed Aug.
No lorry drivers any more, but good food for under ¬15.24; menu at
¬10.98 and a quarter of wine for under ¬3.05. Wise to book.
Restaurant Bleu 46 rue Didot, 14e tel 01.45.43.70.56. Mº Plaisance.
Tues-Sat lunchtime & evening until 11pm.
Excellent, high-class cooking in a small and well-tendedrestaurant. The
three-course menu du marché is ¬19.82, or else you can choose the
speciality truffade (mashed potato and sausage) amongst others from the
à la carte menu for ¬26.86.
N'Zadette M'Foua 152 rue du Château, 14e tel 01.43.22.00.16. Mº Pernety.
Daily 7pm-2am.
A small Congolese restaurant, with tasty dishes such as maboké (meat or
fish baked in banana leaves). Reservationsrequired at weekends. Menu at
¬12.96, à la carte around ¬18.29.
The 15e arrondissement
Cafés and bars
au Bon Coin 85 rue Brancion, 15e. Mº Porte-de-Vanves. Daily till 9pm.
Located next to the Parc Georges-Brassens this well-established bar with
original zinc counter attracts a well-read clientele looking for
somewhere to have a drink and flick through their latest find at the
secondhand book market over the road.
au Roi du Café 59 rue Lecourbe, 15e. Mº Volontaires & Mº
Sèvres-Lecourbe. Daily till 2am. Traditional café with a decor that
hasn't changed much this century and a pleasant terrace, albeit on a
busy road.
Restaurants
Da Attilio 21 rue Cronstadt, 15e tel 01.40.43.91.90. Mº Convention & Mº
Porte-de-Vanves. Mon-Sat till 9.30pm.
Close to the Parc Georges Brassens. Unprepossessing decor and
run-of-the-mill food, but very friendly service and a great atmosphere.
Different Italian specialities each day; plats du jour ¬7.62.
Le Bistrot d'André 232 rue St-Charles, 15e tel 01.45.57.89.14. Mº
Balard. Mon-Sat noon-2.45pm & 7.45-10.30pm.
A reminder of the old Citroën works before the Parc André-Citroën was
created, with pictures and models of the classic French car. Great puds:
midday menu ¬9.91, otherwise around ¬21.34.
Le Café du Commerce 51 rue du Commerce, 15e tel 01.45.75.03.27.
MºÉmile-Zola. Daily noon-midnight.
A two-storey restaurant that's been catering for le petit peuple for
over a hundred years. Still varied, nourishing and cheap fare. Formules
¬13.26 and ¬17.53; carte around ¬22.11.
Sampieru Corsu 12 rue de l'Amiral-Roussin, 15e. Mº Cambronne. Mon-Fri
lunchtime & 7-9.30pm.
Decorated with the posters and passionate declarations of international
socialism, this restaurant provides meals for the homeless, unemployed
and low-paid. The principle is that you pay what you can and it is left
to your conscience how you settle the bill. The minimum requested is
¬6.86 for a three-course meal with wine. However poor you might feel, as
a tourist in Paris you should be able to pay more. The restaurant only
survives on the generosity of its supporters, and it's a wonderful
place.
Student restaurant 156 rue Vaugirard, 15e. Mº Pasteur.
The 13e arrondissement
Cafés and bars
La Folie en Tête 33 rue Butte-aux-Cailles, 13e. Mº Place-d'Italie & Mº
Corvisart. Mon-Sat 5pm-2am.
A very warm and laid-back address, where you can get cheap beer,
sandwiches andmidday plat du jour . Occasional concerts and solidarity
events.
Le Merle Moqueur 11 rue Butte-aux-Cailles, 13e. Mº Place-d'Italie & Mº
Corvisart. Daily 9pm-1am.
Old-time co-op still going strong, with live rock some nights.
Restaurants
Auberge Etchegorry 41 rue Croulebarbe, 13e tel 01.44.08.83.51. Mº
Gobelins. Mon-Sat till 10.30pm.
A former guinguette on the banks of the Bièvre, this Basque restaurant
has preserved an old-fashioned atmosphere of relaxed conviviality, and
the food's good too. Menus from ¬19.82.
Chez Gladines 30 rue des Cinq-Diamants, 13e tel 01.45.80.70.10. Mº
Corvisart. Daily 9am-2am.
This small corner bistro is always welcoming. Excellent wines and dishes
from the southwest; the mashed/fried potato is a must and goes best with
magret de canard . Around ¬18.29 for a full meal.
Lao-Thai 128 rue de Tolbiac, 13e tel 01.44.24.28.10. Mº Tolbiac. Daily
except Wed 11.30am-2.30pm & 7-11pm.
Big glass-fronted resto on a busy interchange. Finely spiced Thai and
Lao food, with coconut, ginger and lemongrass flavours. Midday menu at
¬7.09, otherwise, around ¬18.29.
Phuong Hoang Terrasse des Olympiades, 52 rue du javelot, 13e tel
01.45.84.75.07. Mº Tolbiac; take the escalator up from rue de Tolbiac.
Mon-Fri noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm.
Vietnamese, Thai and Singapore specialities, with menus at ¬7.62, ¬10.67
and ¬12.20. If it's full, try Le Le Lai or New Chinatown nearby.
Student restaurant 105 bd de l'Hôpital, 13e. Mº St-Marcel.
Le Temps des Cerises 18-20 rue Butte-aux-Cailles, 13e tel
01.45.89.69.48. Mº Place-d'Italie & Mº Corvisart. Mon-Fri noon-2pm &
7.30-11pm, Sat 7.30-11pm.
A well-established workers' co-op with elbow-to-elbow seating and a
different daily choice of imaginative dishes. Lunch menu at ¬8.84 and
evening menus starting at ¬17.99.
Montmartre
Cafés and bars
La Petite Charlotte 24 rue des Abbesses, 18e. Mº Abbesses. Tues-Sun till
8pm.
Crêpes, pâtisseries and ¬8.84 formule on sunny tables.
Le Refuge Cnr rue Lamarck & the steps of rue de la Fontaine-du-But, 18e.
Mº Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Mon-Sat till 8.30pm.
A gentle café stop, with a long view west down rue Lamarck, offering
standard café fare and attracting a friendly local clientele.
Le Sancerre 35 rue des Abbesses, 18e. Mº Abbesses. Daily 7am-2am.
A fashionable hang-out for the young and trendy of allnationalities on
the southern slopes of Montmartre.
Restaurants
L'Assiette 78 rue Labat, 18e tel 01.42.59.06.63. Mº Château-Rouge.
Closed Wed evening & Sun.
A bit out of the way, but very friendly, with delicious champignons
forestières, chocolate charlotte and a surprising beetroot sorbet
starter. An extraordinarily good-value ¬14.94 menu.
Fouta Toro 3 rue du Nord, 18e tel 01.42.55.42.73. Mº
Marcadet-Poissonniers. Daily except Tues 7.30pm-1am.
A tiny, crowded, welcoming Senegalese diner in a very scruffy alley
northeast of Montmartre. No more than ¬10.67 all-in. Be prepared for a
wait unless you come at 8pm or after 10.30pm.
au Grain de Folie 24 rue La Vieuville, 18e tel 01.42.58.15.57. Mº
Abbesses. Daily 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11.30pm.
A simple, cheap and friendly vegetarian restaurant, with just the sort
of traditional atmosphere that you would hope for from Montmartre.
Gratin and fruit compote for ¬8.38, menu ¬15.24.
Marie-Louise 52 rue Championnet, 18e tel 01.46.06.86.55. Mº Simplon.
Tues-Sat lunchtime & evening until 10pm; closed Aug.
A bit of a trek north, but the excellent traditional French cuisine at
this renowned restaurant is definitely worth the journey. Menu at
¬19.82, otherwise around ¬27.44.
au Port de Pidjiguiti 28 rue Étex, 18e tel 01.42.26.71.77. Mº
Guy-Môquet. Tues-Sun lunchtime & eve until 11pm; closed Jan.
Very pleasant atmosphere and excellent food. It is run by a village in
Guinea-Bissau, whose inhabitants take turns to staff the restaurant; the
proceeds go to the village. Good-value wine list. Menu ¬15.24; à la
carte around ¬18.29.
au Virage Lepic 61 rue Lepic, 18e tel 01.42.52.46.79. Mº Blanche & Mº
Abbesses. Daily except Tues 7pm-2am. Simple, traditional fare in a
noisy, friendly atmosphere created by the singers - in the
French/Parisian idiom. Small, smoky and very enjoyable. Around ¬15.24.
Pigalle and south of pigalle
Cafés and bars
Le Dépanneur 27 rue Fontaine, 9e tel 01.40.16.40.20. Mº Pigalle. Open
24hr.
Relaxed and fashionable all-night bar.
aux Deux-Théâtres 18 rue Blanche, cnr rue Pigalle, 9e tel
01.45.26.41.43. Mº Trinité. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm & 7-midnight.
A distinctly bourgeois but welcoming and friendly place, whose ¬27.29
menu includes an aperitif. The entrées and desserts are particularly
good.
au Général Lafayette 52 rue Lafayette, 9e. Mº Le Peletier & Mº Cadet.
Daily noon-4am.
Old-time brasserie where all sorts rub shoulders trying the large
variety of beers and wines on offer.
Restaurants
Le Relais Savoyard 13 rue Rodier, cnr rue Agent-Bailly, 9e tel
01.45.26.17.18. Mº Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Mº Anver & Mº Cadet. Mon-Sat
until 9.30pm; closed Aug.
At the back of a very ordinary local bar; very good three-course meal
for ¬17.53.
La Table d'Anvers 2 place d'Anvers, 9e tel 01.48.78.35.21. Mº Anvers.
Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm, Sat 7.30-11.30pm.
This is one of the city's best restaurants, whose chef is renowned for
his original combinations. The menu at ¬38.11 gives a good taste of his
skills; the full experience of four plats , cheese and two desserts will
cost you ¬99.09.
Eastern Paris
Cafés and bars
L'Atmosphère 49 rue Lucien-Sampaix, 10 e. Mº Gare-de-l'Est. Tues-Fri
11am-2am, Sat & Sun 5.30pm-2am.
Next to the Canal St-Martin, this is a lively bar with food and
occasional live music. The Hôtel du Nord on the opposite bank was the
setting for the eponymous film of 1938, and the name of this bar comes
from a quote in the film.
Le Baratin 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20e. Mº Pyrénées. Tues-Fri 11am-1am, Sat
6pm-1am.
Friendly, unpretentious bistrot à vins in a run-down area with a good
mix of people. Fine selection of lesser-known wines and whiskies. Midday
menu ¬9.91.
Le Baron Aligre 1 rue Théophile-Roussel, cnr place d'Aligre market, 12e.
Mº Ledru-Rollin. Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm, Sun 10am-2pm.
Popular local bar. As well as the wines - around ¬2.44 per litre from
the barrel to take away - it serves a few snacks of cheese, foie gras
and charcuterie .
Bistrot Cave des Envierges 11 rue des Envierges, 20e. Mº Pyrénées.
Wed-Fri noon-midnight, Sat & Sun noon-8pm.
Another bistrot à vins purveying good-quality, lesser-known wines to
connoisseurs. An attractive bar - though more a place to taste and buy
wine than eat - in a great location above the Parc de Belleville. From
rue Belleville, follow rue Piat south, which becomes rue des Envierges.
Café Charbon 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e. Mº Parmentier. Daily 9am-2am.
A very successful and attractive resuscitation of a fin-de-siècle café,
drawing a young and trendy clientele. Nice plats du jour for ¬7.62-9.15
at lunchtime; lots of salads and vegetarian dishes. DJ Thurs, Fri & Sat
10pm-2am, and live music on Sun from 8.30pm.
Café de la Musique 213 av Jean-Jaures, 19e. Mº Porte-de Pantin. Daily
till 2am.
Part of the Cité de la Musique, this café, with a popular terrace, was
designed by the Cité architect Portzamparc and exudes sophistication,
discretion and comfort, but be prepared to pay over the odds for a
coffee.
Cithea 112 rue Oberkampf, 11e. Mº Parmentier. Daily 5pm-2am.
Bar and venue next door to the Café Charbon for Afro funk, funk reggae,
world beat, jazz fusion, etc on Thurs, Fri & Sat nights. Cocktails
¬6.86. No admission charge for the music, but busy.
La Flèche d'Or 102bis rue de Bagnolet, cnr rue des Pyrénées, 20e. Mº
Alexandre-Dumas. Daily 10am-2am.
A large, lively café attracting the biker, arty, post-punkish Parisian
young. The decor is très destroy - ie railway sleepers and a sawn-off
bus front hanging from the ceiling - and the building itself is the old
Bagnolet station on the petite ceinture railway that encircled the city
until around thirty years ago. It's a nightly venue for live world
music, pop, punk, ska, fusion and chanson , and the reasonably priced
food also has a multicultural slant.
Jacques-Mélac 42 rue Léon-Frot, 11e. Mº Charonne. Mon-Fri 9am-10.30pm;
closed weekends & Aug.
Some way off the beaten track (between Père-Lachaise and place
Léon-Blum) but a highly respected and very popular bistrot à vins ,
whose patron even makes his own wine - the solitary vine winds round the
front of the shop. The food ( plats around ¬10.67, menu ¬19.82), wines
and atmosphere are great; no bookings.
Le Penty Bar Cnr place d'Aligre & rue Emilio-Castelar, 12e. Mº
Ledru-Rollin.
Small, old-fashioned café making no concessions to modern standards of
sanitation, and still charging only ¬1.07 for a sit-down cup of coffee.
Le Réveil du Dixième 35 rue du Château-d'Eau, 10e tel 01.42.41.77.59. Mº
Château-d'Eau. Mon-Sat 7.15am-9pm.
A welcoming, unpretentious wine bar serving glasses of wine and regional
plats or a menu at ¬22.87 including wine.
La Ville de Jagannath 10 rue St Maur, 11e. Mº St-Maur. Closed Mon lunch
and Sun.
Authentic vegetarian Indian food served in thalis. Lunch menu ¬7.62. For
a small corkage fee you can bring your own wine.
Restaurants
Les Amognes 243 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine, 11e tel 01.43.72.73.05. Mº
Faidherbe-Chaligny. Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; closed Mon
lunch, Sun & two weeks in Aug.
Excellent, interesting food in a very popular place. Booking essential.
Menu at ¬28.96, otherwise well over ¬38.11.
Astier 44 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e tel 01.43.57.16.35. Mº
Parmentier. Mon-Fri until 10pm; closed Aug, two weeks in May & two weeks
at Christmas.
Very successful, popular restaurant, with simple decor, unstuffy
atmosphere and fresh, refined food. Booking essential. Menu at ¬21.34.
Bistrot du Peintre 116 av Ledru-Rollin, 11e tel 01.47.00.34.39. Mº
Ledru-Rollin. Mon-Sat 7am-2am, Sun 10am-8pm. Small tables jammed
together beneath Art-Nouveau frescoes and wood panelling. Traditional
Parisian bistro food, with plats du jour from ¬9.45.
de Bourgogne 26 rue des Vinaigriers, 10e tel 01.46.07.07.91 Mº
Jacques-Bonsergent. Mon-Fri lunchtime & evening till 10pm, Sat lunchtime
only; closed Aug.
Homely, old-fashioned restaurant; dinner around ¬12.19.
Chez Prune 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10e tel 01.42.41.30.47. Mº
Jacques-Bonsergent. Mon-Sat 7.30am-1.45am, Sun 10am-1.45am.
Lovely location for casual canal-side dining. Creative assiettes
(starting at ¬6.10) guaranteed to tempt both meat-eaters and
vegetarians, and a romantic place to sip a glass of wine orindulge in a
dessert. Plats in the ¬8.38 to ¬12.20 range.
Les Cinq Points Cardinaux 14 rue Jean-Macé, 11e tel 01.43.71.47.22. Mº
Faidherbe-Chaligny & Mº Charonne. Mon-Fri noon-2pm & 7-10pm; closed Aug.
An excellent, simple, old-time bistro, still mainly frequented by
locals. Prices under ¬9.15 for lunch, and under ¬15.24 in the evening.
L'Ébauchoir 43-45 rue de Cîteaux, 12e tel 01.43.42.49.31. Mº
Faidherbe-Chaligny. Mon-Sat until 11pm.
Good bistro fare in a sympathetic atmosphere. Best to book for the
evening. Midday menu for ¬10.06; carte ¬22.87 upwards.
Flo 7 cours des Petites-Écuries, 10e tel 01.47.70.13.59. Mº
Château-d'Eau. Daily until 1.30am.
Handsome old-time brasserie where you eat elbow-to-elbow at long tables,
served by waiters in ankle-length aprons. Excellent food and atmosphere;
good-value menus, including wine, at ¬21.04 and ¬27.29.
La Fontaine aux Roses 27 av Gambetta, 20e tel 01.46.36.74.75. Mº
Père-Lachaise. Tues-Sat till 10pm; closed Sun evening, Mon & Aug.
Small, beautiful restaurant with first-rate menus: midday ¬18.29 and
evenings ¬25.91, both including kir royale , wine and coffee.
L'Homme Bleu 57 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e. Mº Parmentier. Mon-Sat
evenings only till 10pm.
Very affordable and pleasant Berber restaurant, popular with students.
Julien 16 rue du Faubourg-St-Denis, 10e tel 01.47.70.12.06. Mº
Strasbourg-St-Denis. Daily till 1.30am.
Part of the same enterprise as Flo , with an even more splendid decor.
Same good traditional French cuisine at the same prices, and it's just
as crowded.
Lao Siam 49 rue de Belleville, 19e tel 01.40.40.09.68. Mº Belleville.
Daily till 11pm. Extremely good Thai and Lao food make this folksy
restaurant popular with locals. Dishes ¬6.40-9.15.
La Mansouria 11 rue Faidherbe, 11e tel 01.43.71.00.16. Mº
Faidherbe-Chaligny. Tues-Sat lunchtime & evening till 11.30pm; closed
two weeks in Aug.
An excellent, elegant Moroccan restaurant, serving superb couscous and
tagines . Menu at ¬25.61.
Le Pacifique 35 rue de Belleville, 20e tel 01.42.49.66.80. Mº
Belleville. Daily 11am-1am.
A huge Chinese eating house with variable culinary standards but low
prices. Main courses from ¬7.62, ¬12.96 or ¬15.24 menu.
Pho-Dong-Huong 14 rue Louis-Bonnet, 11e tel 01.43.57.18.88. Mº
Belleville. Daily except Tues noon-10.30pm.
Spotlessly clean Vietnamese resto, where all dishes are under ¬7.62 and
come with piles of fresh green leaves. Spicy soups, crispy pancakes, but
slow service.
Pooja 91 passage Brady, 10e tel 01.48.24.00.83. Mº Strasbourg-St-Denis &
Mº Château-d'Eau. Daily noon-2.30pm & 5-11pm; closed Mon lunchtime.
Located in a passage that is Paris's own slice of the Indian
subcontinent; authentic, good-value Indian cuisine. Formules at ¬6.86
lunch and ¬13.57 evening.
aux Rendez-Vous des Amis 10 av Père-Lachaise, 20e tel 01.47.97.72.16. Mº
Gambetta. Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm; closed last week July to mid-Aug.
Unprepossessing surroundings for very good, simple and satisfying family
cooking. Main courses ¬6.86-11.89; menu at ¬9.91.
Le Rendez-vous des Quais 10 quai de la Seine, 19e. Mº Jaurès & Mº
Stalingrad. Daily 11.30am-12.30am.
Attached to the MK2 art-house cinema, the outside tables of this
café/brasserie sit right on the banks of the Bassin de la Villette
providing a relaxing spot for a refreshment before or after the canal
cruises which depart opposite.
Rittal et Courts 1 rue des Envierges, 20e tel 01.47.97.08.40. Mº
Pyrénées. Tues-Sat noon-2am, Sun noon-7pm.
Mellow bar/café/trattoria which specializes in showing "Courts
Métrages"- short films (Tues-Sun 3.30-7pm, Sat midnight-2am). It's in an
unbeatable situation overlooking the Parc de Belleville: get a pavement
table on a summer evening and you'll have the best restaurant view in
Paris. The Italian food is tasty and affordable, with a large pasta
selection, including numerous vegetarian options; ¬7.62-13.72.
aux Saveurs du Liban 11 rue Eugène-Jumin, 19e. Mº Porte-de Pantin.
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
Excellent authentic Lebanese food at this tiny restaurant in a lively
local street not far from the Parc de la Villette. Very good value with
plats for ¬4.57 and wine for ¬1.37 a glass; sandwiches from ¬2.74 to
take away; ¬6.10 lunchtime formula.
Taï Yen 5 rue de Belleville, 20e tel 01.42.41.44.16. Mº Belleville.
Daily 10am-2am.
Admire the koi carps idling round their aquarium like embroidered satin
cushions while you wait for the generous soups and steamed specialities
of this Chinese restaurant. ¬9.91 menu, dishes from ¬7.47.
Au Trou Normand 9 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e tel 01.48.05.80.23. Mº
Filles-du-Calvaire, Mº Oberkampf & Mº République. Mon-Fri lunchtime &
evenings till 9.30pm, Sat evenings only; closed Aug.
A small, totally unpretentious and very attractive local bistro, serving
good traditional food at knock-down prices. Plat du jour from ¬4.57.
Le Zéphyr 1 rue Jourdain, 20e tel 01.46.36.65.81. Mº Jourdain. Mon-Sat
till 11.30pm.
A rather trendy but relaxed 1930s-style bistro with menus at ¬10.52 and
¬19.82.
Paris for vegetarians
The chances of finding vegetarian main dishes on the menus of regular
French restaurants are not good. You could choose a selection of
non-meat starters or order an omelette or a salad, but you'll be much
better off going to an ethnic restaurant - Middle Eastern or Indian make
a good choice - or a proper vegetarian restaurant . There are not many
of the latter, and the ones that do exist tend to be based on a healthy
diet principle rather than haute cuisine , but at least you get a
choice.
Aquarius 1 , 54 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 4e.
Aquarius 2 , 40 rue Gergovie, 14e.
Au Grain de Folie , 24 rue de la Vieuville, 18e.
Grand Appétit , 9 rue de la Cerisaie, 4e.
Le Grenier de Notre-Dame , 18 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e.
La Petite Légume , 36 rue Boulangers, 5e.
Les Quatre et Une Saveurs , 72 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5e.
La Ville de Jagannath , 10 rue St Maur, 11e.
La Victoire Suprème du Coeur , 41 rue des Bourdonnais, 1er.
Late-night Paris
It's not at all unusual for bars and brasseries in Paris to stay open
after midnight. Note that the three Drugstores , at 133 av des
Champs-Élysées and 1 av Matignon in the 8e, and 149 bd St-Germain in the
6e, stay open till 2am, with bars, restaurants, shops and tabacs .
Student restaurants
Students of any age are eligible to apply for tickets for the university
restaurants under the direction of CROUS de Paris. A list of addresses,
which includes numerous cafeterias and brasseries, is available from
their offices at 39 av Georges-Bernanos, 5e (tel 01.40.51.36.00; Mon-Fri
9am-5pm; RER Port-Royal). The tickets, however, have to be obtained from
the particular restaurant of your choice (opening hours generally
11.30am-2pm & 6-8pm). Not all serve both midday and evening meals, and
times change with each term. Though the food is less than wonderful,
it's certainly filling, and you can't complain for the price . Some are
less fussy than others about student credentials, and will sell tickets
to anyone for ¬4.30. They will cost you ¬2.09 if you're studying at a
French university, ¬3.51 if you can produce an International Student
Card.
Restaurants of Paris
As you would expect, there are some really spectacular restaurants in
Paris. One of the best is Alain Ducasse at 59 av Raymond Poincaré, 16e
(tel 01.47.27.12.27) which has beenawarded three Michelin stars. It's
run by the enterprising Alain Ducasse, who has also been awarded three
stars for another of his restaurants, Le Louis XV , in Monte Carlo,
making him the only chef to have been awarded six Michelin stars. At
midday during the week, the menu at his Paris restaurant is around
¬45.73-60.21; prixe fixe menus range from ¬73.17 to ¬228.66; and there's
no limit to the amount you can pay for beautiful wines. Ducasse has also
recently opened a smaller, less fussy establishment, Spoon, Food & Wine
, at 14 rue de Marignan, 8e (tel 01.40.76.34.44), with cheaper, though
no less superb cuisine.
The other greats include: Lucas Carton , 9 place de la Madeleine, 8e
(tel 01.42.65.22.90), with splendid Art-Nouveau decor, run by chef Alain
Senderens; Taillevent , 15 rue Lamennais, 8e (tel 01.45.61.12.90); Les
Ambassadeurs , in the Hôtel Crillon , 10 place de la Concorde, 8e (tel
01.44.71.16.16); Ledoyen , 1 av Dutuit, 8e (tel 01.47.42.35.98), headed
by a Flemish woman chef, Ghislaine Arabian; and Guy Savoy , 18 rue
Troyon, 17e (tel 01.43.80.40.61). |
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